Wednesday 17 October 2012

Digital Fashion Week: Guo Pei Q&A on her exquisite designs coveted by Lady Gaga

It I were to describe Guo Pei’s creations, couture or haute couture wouldn't begin to describe it. There probably aren't enough words in the dictionary to suitably describe her outrageous creations. 

Anyone who says fashion can't be art has clearly never laid eyes on anything from China's top designer whose pieces all look like they stepped out of the most over the top gallery and museum in history.

Taking Chinese history and its rich culture as her inspiration, Guo Pei makes no compromise when it comes to creating and crafting exquisite gowns which sometimes take years to complete. 

It is feast to the eyes, inspiring as nothing I’ve ever seen before and way more avant-garde than anything Lady Gaga has managed to wear - Perhaps that is why the mother monster herself is so keen on getting her hands on one of her creations!

The Chinese designer is coming to Singapore for Digital Fashion Week (DFW) and her show is going to be the highlight and closing show of the event is not to miss for sure. There aren't many times you get a chance to see something so spectacular and exquisite especially after the late Alexander McQueen passed away and John Galliano stopped designing.


Chinese designer Guo Pei
Want to daydream about fashion? Guo Pei makes some of the most
exquisite gowns I've seen...

Guo Pei is showing at Singapore Digital Fashion Week



Guo Pei’s show is probably THE one thing I’m looking forward to most during DFW (especially when the equally stunning Andrej Pejic will be modeling the finale piece for the show!) and luckily for me I’ll get to see these gowns up-close backstage.

Unfortunately though, my lack of Mandarin-speaking abilities means I won’t be the one interviewing Guo Pei for Google+ Hangout after the show so I’m very happy and honoured to have this Q&A with her and share it with you.

Don’t forget to catch Guo Pei’s spectacular show Live-streamed on DFW website, youtube and enjoy daydreaming about these one-off unattainable creations as much as I do.


Bonjour Singapore: You’ll be the closing the show for the upcoming DFW. What does that mean to you especially that the DFW is all about showcasing Asian designers? 
您将参加即将到来的新加坡数码时装周的闭幕秀。新加坡数码时装周全部展示的是亚洲设计师作品,这对您意味着什么?

Guo Pei: I see myself as not only an Asian designer showcasing Asian culture to the world, but also as a Chinese designer who showcases our culture and trends to Asia and the rest of the world.
这意味着:我作为亚洲设计师向世界展示亚洲的文化,同时作为一个中国设计师的代表,也向亚洲乃至向世界展示我们中国的服饰文化和时尚文化。


What inspires you to create these exquisite gowns and costumes? What’s the inspiration behind your latest collection which you’ll be showing at DFW? 
是什么启发了您制作这些精美的礼服?您即将在新加坡展示的最新系列灵感来源是什么?

I am inspired by my country's traditional wedding costume, our rich history and culture spanning some 5000 years and also the intricate differences in costume history. My strongest influence would stem from the unique cultural differences in my country.
新作品灵感来于中国的嫁衣,以及中国五千年的文化、历代的服饰的不同特点,主要是我们民族的不同文化。


Guo Pei is coveted by Lady Gaga

Guo Pei is bringing her creations to Singapore


Your creations are extremely elaborate. How long does it take you to make one gown? 
您的作品极致华美。一件礼服需要多久才能够完成?

Many of my creations are very time and labour intensive - the completion period ranges from a few months to a few years.
很多作品是要很多的人工和时间的投入,精心的制作才能够完成,所有的这一切投入我认为都是生命的转移。这些作品少则几个月多则几年,几千甚至上万小时,有些都得达到两万小时。


In a world where our lives are becoming more and more about practicality. How does your extravagant work fit into that?
 我们现在生活的世界越来越追求便利和使用。您夸张的作品如何能与之融入?

In reality, although we pursue practicality and convenience in our daily life, we also crave the mental pursuit. In fact, this very pursuit of mental and emotional fulfilment is often manifested in art pieces. All art pieces need not only a creative inspiration, but also a certain amount of intensity for it to ultimately become a classical piece that can stand the test of test. I feel that as our pace of life hastens, we seek to slow down for a sense of stability. As the current theme expands on the idea of the Chinese wedding costume, the key elements will be the antithesis of speed and ease, and instead, emphasize on the importance of our heritage and its passage through time. We aspire towards posterity and I hope that my wedding dresses will be passed on from mothers to daughters, who will then pass it on to their daughters.
现实中我们追求便利和实用,但是人们总是有不断的精神追求,其实这种精神追求的高度往往体现在艺术作品之中。所有的艺术作品除了创作的灵感,还有就是用心的投入才能成为永恒之作。我觉得现在人的生活越来越快,其实很多人都在追求慢下来和沉淀。我这次推出的主题是中国嫁衣的系列。人们在婚嫁这一刻,尤其是对婚姻,并不追求便捷,也绝不追求速度,我们需要的是沉淀和传承生命的转移。我们向往那些永恒的东西。我也希望我的嫁衣能成为被代代传承的东西:母亲传给女儿、女儿再传给女儿……


China's Guo Pei at Digital Fashion Week

Guo Pei's avant garde works


There is a huge rise to couture in Asia due to the new wealth in countries like China and India while bad economies continue in the west. Do you think this is good for Asian couturiers like yourself and does it give you any advantage over your European counterparts? 随着中国和印度新贵阶层的发展,定制行业得到了一个巨大的飞跃。同时,西方经济却越来越糟。您觉得这对于您这样的亚洲设计师来讲是否是件好事?相对于欧洲同行,它是否给您带来了更大的优势?

China's strong economy has definitely created a market for couturiers, but I feel that the downturn in the West does not necessarily present an opportunity for us. Be it East or West, we would definitely hope for an optimistic shift of the world economy. In fact, the downtrend in the West does not bode well for us at all, because global advancement for us would require their recognition and support.
中国经济的发展的确给这种定制行业提供了一定的空间,但我觉得西方经济的不乐观并非是亚洲设计师的机会。无论东方还是西方,我们更希望整个世界是积极地乐观地发展的。其实西方经济的这种灰色状态对我们来讲也不是好事。因为高级定制市场主要在西方,如果设计师想要得到全球性的发展也不能失去西方社会的认同,所以他们的经济出现了问题,对于亚洲设计师来讲也不是一件积极乐观的事情。



There’s a thin line between theatrical costume design and wearable extravagant fashion. How do you balance that?
 在戏剧服装设计与可穿的夸张时装有一条微妙的界限。 您如何保持这俩这间的平衡?

I think there are inextricable differences in theatrical costume design and wearable extravagant fashion, which are yet subtly linked. Fashion is but an expression, sometimes an exaggerated expression on stage. In fact, if you understand the significance of clothing expression, you will be able to grasp the subtle relationship of these nuances. In life, our expression is convergent hence, there needs to be a moderation in all the details of the design in order to achieve that delicate balance. Some of my designs boast of an exaggerated flamboyance, some are reflections of practical life and I have even designed eveningwear for celebrities. This is a design philosophy that highlights the commercial practicality while toning down on the theatrics. To be able to master this, one needs to be able to master the delicate balance between the design details.
我觉得舞台服装、戏曲服装和日常生活装她们设计之中的确有着不同的差异,也有着微妙的联系。但是服装它是一种表达,有的时候在舞台上需要夸张性的表达,其实你了解服装的表达的意义,就能把握这两种微妙的关系。生活中我们表达是收敛的,没有任何一个人在生活中的语言表达像在舞台上唱歌一样,所以要适度的掌握设计中的所有的细节,以达到微妙的平衡。在我的设计中,既有很夸张的舞台设计也有生活装设计,甚至也有明星的晚装设计。这是一种高于生活低于舞台的服装设计,能够掌握服装的这种表达方式就能够掌握设计细节之间的微妙平衡。


Shoes by Guo Pei

Shoes by Guo Pei


Who do you design for? 您为谁做设计?

In fact, the sphere for my designs is very broad - I have designed set costumes, gowns for show hosts and singers, red carpet eveningwear, everyday wear, wedding dresses (both Chinese and Western). I think design is a universal concept, and there is coherence between fashion design, architecture, interior design and furniture design. In fact, they do not have so many differences and that's why I am passionately interested in all these aspects. I love to design very much, and am willing to design for everyone.
其实我的设计空间很广泛,有舞台装:从戏曲服装电影服装一直到中国晚会主持人和著名歌手的服装设计;也有很多的明星红地毯以及她们的晚装设计;甚至日常装,包括很多普通人的日常着装;婚礼服,除了中式的婚礼服外我也设计西式的婚礼服。我觉得设计是相通的,甚至服装与建筑、室内装饰设计和家具设计都是连贯的,何况服装本身呢?其实他们没有那么多差异,所有这些设计我都很有兴趣,都很有激情去面对。我很热爱设计,愿意为所有的人做设计。


What do you think of the fashion scene in Asia? What’s the most fashionable city for you? 
您对亚洲的时尚有何看法?对您来说最时尚的城市是哪个?

Of course, international fashion also comprises of the Asian fashion culture and fashion in Asia should be combined with its Asian cultural characteristics. Tokyo, as one of the world's four major fashion capitals, has a very distinct character in its clothing. I also think Singapore is an excellent city for its urban planning, people's lifestyles and fashion sense.
国际时尚其中当然也包含亚洲时尚文化,亚洲的时尚应该更好更多的结合亚洲的文化特点。东京作为世界四大时装之都之一,日本服装也很有自己的特点。我觉得新加坡是个很精致的城市,无论它的城市规划、人们的生活方式、人们的着装,都有它别致的味道。



Are there any designers – past or present – whom you look up to or admire their work? 
您所敬仰和崇拜的设计师(过去的或者现在的)?

I admire and worship a lot of designers from a very young age. Beginning in the early 1980s, when I began to study fashion design, I discovered Chanel and had a reverence for her. Later, I learned about Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior, I would forever place them on a pedestral. Of course, designers like Alexander McQueen, Japan's Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and so many current young designers, I appreciate very much of their work. In fact, I think there are various reasons why each successful designer is successful in their own right - that's why I respect so many of them.
其实我所敬仰和崇拜的设计师很多很多,从很小的时候就开始。80年代初刚开始学服装设计、刚知道Chanel的时候,就对她有一种崇敬之心。到后来又了解到Yves Saint Laurent和Christian Dior这些前辈,我对他们的崇敬心是永远的。当然像Alexander McQueen,日本的山本耀司,川久保玲以至于现在很多年轻设计师,我都很欣赏、很喜欢他们的作品。其实我觉得每个成功的设计师都有他们的成功之处,应该说我所欣赏崇敬的设计师很多很多。


Intricate designs by Guo Pei

Chinese designer Guo Pei showing in Singapore


You’ve dressed Chinese celebrities like Li Bing Bing and Zhang Ziyi, Any celebrity that you’d like to dress in particular? What about Lady Gaga?
您曾经为众多中国名人制作服装,比如李冰冰和章子怡。是否有您特别想与之合作的名人?Lady Gaga如何?


Indeed, my designs had been associated with a lot of celebrities - for example, Lady Gaga had always appreciated my design, and is still constantly in contact for new designs. But I do not think that designers should only cater to celebrities, and I hope to be able to reach more people across a broader spectrum. I am willing to design for everyone, and not only for the stars.
的确,在中国我的设计作品接触到了很多明星名流,甚至跟lady gaga也一直有着联络,她一直很喜欢很欣赏我的设计,也在不断的接触之中。但我确实不认为设计师只服务于明星,我我更希望和更多的人、更广泛的需求者接触,我愿意为所有人做设计,所以我的设计不仅仅只服务于明星。

Chinese star Li Bing Bing wears Guo Pei
Lucky her! Chinese actress Li Bing Bing wearing stunning Guo
Pei creations...

Would you ever consider designing a prêt-a-porter line so more people can wear your designs? 
您是否考虑过要设计一个成衣线,以便于更多人能穿上您的设计?

I am now considering if I should make it more accessible for people to be able to wear the clothing I design, and I hope that this desire can be realized as soon as possible. For the first 10 years, I did mainstream fashion. I felt that I failed to achieve my desire to "make more beautiful clothes" as there was no market for them back then. But as designers always pursue a potentially unrealistic desire, I was prompted to set up my Rose Studio atelier, and had been obsessed with the perfect design for the past 16 years. I also hope to expand on these high spending consumer groups, so that more people will be able to afford my designs. I believe it will be achievable in the near future.
我现在也在考虑让更多的人能够穿我设计的服装,我希望这个愿望能尽快实现。我做了26年的设计师,其中前十年我的设计是很大众化的,是服务于大众的,是成衣系列。在这十年的成衣系列设计中,我当时认为无法实现自己“能做更漂亮的衣服”的愿望,那些“更漂亮的”服装在当时是认为没有市场的。但是设计师总有一种对可能不现实的愿望的追求,这促使我成立了玫瑰坊,至今16年,一直执着于完美的设计。经过这十几年,我也希望自己能扩大这种有高度的设计的消费人群,至少让我身边的人能买得起,这也是我现在思考的问题,我相信这在不久的将来一定会实现。



Guo Pei's closing DFW show will take place on Monday, October 22 at 7pm. You can catch it live on YouTube and don't forget to catch my co-host Yvette King's post show interview with the designer on the Guo Pei Google+ Hangout shortly afterwards.

Guo Pei is coveted by Lady Gaga

Guo Pei is showing at Digital Fashion Week